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Vote for this site!Living Water - Dissertations - Bass Ringer's Notebook - Stopped Sounds


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Stopped Sounds

Stopped sounds are the bell techniques that damp the sound of a bell immediately after the clapper strikes the casting. For the sake of argument, I've included related techniques, such as a martellato-lift, which follow a stopped sound with a sustained sound created by lifting the bell.

Because stopped sounds involve contact with or impacts to the vibrating part of the instrument, they're poor choices for chimes. The tines are too fragile to take much in terms of hitting object, even pads, and people have cracked their chimes by doing this (remember, the only remedy for a cracked chime is to buy a new one). Contact with the chimes usually is hard to control as it kills the sound too quickly. There is, however, one stopped sound you can make with a chime which you can't make with a bell (see below).

The recommended swing distance for a stopped sound is a couple of inches. At the 2000 Area XII bell conference, one of the guys in my bass bell class said his director called that distance "one taco". It's an excellent metric except, perhaps, when you're really hungry and have a craving for some Mexican food! Anyway, a great strike distance than "one taco" means that you're hitting the waist in a very specific location with a very focused force - and people have broken castings, particularly on some very large, expensive bells, by overenthusiastic malleting. As with chimes, the only fix for a cracked bell is to buy a new one - and they cost ten times as much as chimes!

I've broken the stopped sounds into those which are done only with the hands (and pad),. and those which are mallet-assisted.

Hands-Only Stopped Sounds:

Mallet-Assisted Stopped Sounds:

The perceived volume of malleted sounds is three to four times greater than ringing a comparable bell. This isn't because the sound actually is louder; it's because the volume spike which occurs is easily perceived by our ears (that's why you eventually get used to driving next to a semi rig after a bit, but still hear the super-bass pulsing in the SUV on the other side). It's the same principle as that which makes staccato or marcato notes more audible with other instruments. That means you don't have to whack away at your bells to make your malleting heard; in fact, it makes a lot of sense to go lightly.

You should be holding the mallet handle in a "shake hands" position. Don't put a thumb or an index finger on top of the shank because it robs you of flexibility and touch, and therefore precision and quality as well.

A time-tested method for malleting is, if possible, to rest the mallet head on the bell to be played before striking it. Then all you have to do is lift and strike, and you don't really need to look because you already know where the bell it. Of course, this doesn't apply in active passages where you don't have time to rest the mallets.

The best place to strike the casting with a mallet is at the same distance the clapper does. That way you don't place any strange stresses on your bells, and they'll last longer.


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© 2004 Larry Sue